Tuesday, December 07, 2004

M on the Bund (Shanghai)


Giving the restaurant due consideration, I will say that I have been a patron here only once during lunchtime. I had planned to come back for dinner to see how the entree would fare, but another restaurant snatched my attention and left me with no time to return here.

The reasonably priced set-menu offering either two picks (at Y118) or three picks (at Y138) per set is an invaluable introduction to the cuisine at this restaurant on the Bund. I picked the latter as I would like to sample an appetizer, one main entrée and a dessert item. Unfortunately, none of the three lived up to my expectation.

The chestnut soup with a hint of olive oil was very bland. My being healthy at the time (which should guarantee a strong sense of taste and of smell) could not detect the subtlest hint of chestnut. I have to note that I am not one who usually would sprinkle salt on my dish, but this was one of those times that some dash of salt (and then some more) was needed to bring a semblance of taste to my palate.

The main entrée, veal tongue on a bed of vegetables and potato, did not fare better either. Two slices of tongue were placed on a mound of potatoes that were hidden underneath blanched greens. The tongues were chewy and not much for taste; and this comes from someone whose mother had prepared softer and tastier dishes of cow tongues. I know that there is a way to treat the tongue to make it less rubbery.

To complete my disappointment, the dessert was not much of an imagination; so unremarkable it was that, embarrassed to say, I forgot what it was. All I remember now was that it did not offer any break from the previous two dishes. To be fair, I would like to return at least one more time to prove myself wrong. Until that time, my review of this restaurant is just lukewarm.

No doubt that the location provides a great view of the Bund. Even from where I was sitting, an indoor seating about three tables away from the beginning of the terrace, the vista looked promising (look at the accompanying photograph.) Service was excellent, where all needs were anticipated and met. The hostess and staff standing at the entrance could be a little bit more welcoming and friendly, but maybe the icy attitude was part of the charm of the place. The gentlemen’s restroom was an exercise in minimalism with glowing Kelly green walls and a red-flowering plantain positioned on a ledge near the entrance door.

M on the Bund, located on the 7th floor of 20 Guandong Lu, has a non-descript entrance off the Xhongshan Dong Yilu. The restaurant, which is an offshoot of the M at the Fringe in Hong Kong (which I have never been), has a smoking/non-smoking section, with a terrace dining available during warmer weather.


M on the Bund
7/F, No. 5 the Bund (on the corner of Guangdong Lu; enter through the Guangdong Lu side)
Shanghai 200002
China
Tel: +86 (21) 6350-9988
Fax: +86 (21) 6322-0099